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Livraria Lello bookstore, the most beautiful bookstore in the world!
Livraria Lello is often called one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, and it’s one of the most popular sights in Porto. It’s even known as the “Harry Potter bookstore”… but is there really a connection?
What many people don’t realise is that visiting Livraria Lello can also mean dealing with long queues and heavy crowds, especially during peak times. If you don’t plan your visit well, it can quickly feel more stressful than magical.
We visit Porto regularly, and in this guide, we’ll share our experience along with practical tips on how to visit Livraria Lello, avoid the worst of the crowds, and still enjoy the experience.
You’ll also find everything you need to know about tickets, the history of the bookstore, and the truth behind the Harry Potter myth (hint: there isn’t one).
Livraria Lello bookstore, an overview
Visiting Livraria Lello, Porto
When planning a visit to Porto, you’ll definitely read about Livraria Lello. But what is this place, and is it worth a visit? Livraria is the Portuguese word for bookshop or bookstore, and Lello is the name of this fantastic place, named after the Lello brothers.
It’s known as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, vivid colours, and a stained-glass skylight in the centre. Let’s look at why this Porto store should be on your itinerary when visiting Porto!
A brief history of Livraria Lello
Livraria Lello opened its doors on January 13th 1906. Still, the bookstore’s extended history dates back to the 19th century! Ernesto Chardron, a French bookseller, moved to Porto in 1858.
Chardron was a lucky man, as he won the lottery in 1869! To fulfil his dreams, he opened a new bookstore: Bookstore and Publisher Chardron.
Another book lover, José Pinto de Sousa Lello, opened his first bookshop in 1881. He and his brother, António Lello, became prominent members of Porto’s intellectual bourgeoisie. Four years later, in 1885, Chardron died at the age of 45. In 1894, José Pinto de Sousa Lello acquired the Chardron bookstore, including all its contents.
When walking into the store, you’ll notice the Lello Brothers had an immense love for the arts and culture, and engineer Francisco Xavier Esteves designed the current Lello bookstore.
Art Deco designs are everywhere inside, and the neo-Gothic with Art Nouveau façade is simply stunning! Livraria Chardron de Lello & Irmão became Livraria Lello & Irmão, and you can still see both names on the façade.
Lello Livraria today
The bookshop wasn’t always this famous, but nowadays, over 1 million visitors a year come to see Livraria Lello! Of those, hundreds of thousands buy a book, a great souvenir of your time in Porto! The building has been extensively renovated, and the current façade is from 2016.
Currently, the administration is in the hands of the Pedro Pinto Family. Since 2015, there has been an entry fee to visit Livraria Lello. The entrance ticket will, however, provide you with a discount when you purchase a book.
Did you know?
Livraria Bertrand in Lisbon is the oldest operating bookstore globally, but Lello bookstore is also one of the oldest bookstores in Portugal! Publishers like Lonely Planet often have Livraria Lello on their lists of top bookstores!
Livraria Lello and Harry Potter
Once you walk inside the building, you can see the tremendous staircase in the centre of the room. Rumour has it that this staircase inspired the staircases at Hogwarts School for J. K. Rowling, the well-known writer of the Harry Potter books.
Since Lello Livraria is often called the Harry Potter Bookstore, you can find even an impressive collection of Harry Potter books on the shelves.
J. K. Rowling lived in Porto between 1991 and 1993. She worked in Porto as an English teacher, but there was one problem. Rowling claimed she did not know about the bookstore’s existence, and the inspiration did not come from the now-famous store.
It’s a bit like Shakespeare, who never stepped foot in Verona! So whether the bookstore in Porto was the inspiration for Harry Potter and Hogwarts remains to be seen. J. K. Rowling did write in the beautiful Majestic Café occasionally on Rua Santa Catarina.
Fun fact!
A copy of the first edition of Harry Potter and The Philosopher’s Stone auctioned for more than 117 thousand euros! Livraria Lello acquired a similar copy of the first Harry Potter book in 2019. Who would have thought books are a smart investment?
What to see in the most beautiful bookstore in the world?
To make a claim you’re the most beautiful bookshop in the world means that a visit will be memorable! Be prepared, as you’ll be seeing many stunning gems inside!
It starts on the outside already, as the neo-Gothic is an eye-catcher! So, while you wait in the queue, soak up the beauty of the building! Discover the lettering, the two painted figures, and the colourful painting.
The staircase
The iconic staircase is the most famous part of the bookstore and a truly striking element inside. It looks like carved wood, but it was actually built in reinforced concrete, one of the first of its kind!
In 2017 and 2018, extensive restorations uncovered the signature of Francisco Xavier Esteves, who was responsible for the project.
In 1993, it got the red colour it is famous for today, but the original colour was brown. Due to a mistake, it was painted red, but sculptor Master José Rodrigues loved it! And it remained this way.
You can see how this stunner could be the inspiration for Hogwarts, so enjoy this moment in the magical store.
The stained-glass ceiling
The stained-glass roof is 8 meters long and 3.5 meters wide and was created by Dutch master Samuel Van Krieken. There are 55 panels cast in iron, and under the glass, you’ll read Decus in Labore. This means Dignity in Work, a rule adopted in 1906 when the shop opened.
By the way, can you find the smiley in the glass? This was added during the 2018 restorations! The ceiling is decorated with painted plaster and a true highlight.
Hidden gems that easily go unnoticed!
Did you see the track on the ground floor? This trackway was used to transport books to the basement by trolley! This is a replica, but the original one was used in the days Livraria Lello was used as a warehouse.
There are also several unique books, such as the International Bookstore of Ernesto Chardron and Livraria Lemos & Cª collections!
Two lottery tickets were found behind the counters and shelves during the restoration. Booksellers were trying to be as lucky as Chardron once was!
Other points of interest in the bookstore
There is a lot more to see, but here are some more highlights to discover:
- Find the art installation O Rosto do Porto, which means the face of Porto with 400 clay busts
- Visit the Sala José Saramago, a room filled with works from the Portuguese writer
- Gemma is the space where the most exclusive books are preserved
- Check out the art installation Livraria Lello X Time along the walls
- And more, go check it out yourself!
Our personal experience at the Lello bookstore
We had been to Porto numerous times before visiting the famous bookshop. Whenever we saw the queue outside, we turned around. The crowded landmark has turned into (a bit of) a tourist trap, but we had to discover this for ourselves, of course!
We finally went to see Livraria Lello in December, figuring the crowds would be less. We got our online tickets a week beforehand. We went as early as possible, and when we arrived, there was already a long line of people!
After checking our tickets, I joined the line for a picture at the famous staircase. Then we headed upstairs to wander around and take some images, and decided to make a book purchase at Lello’s bookstore and exchange our vouchers.
It was very cramped inside, especially around the staircase, and taking pictures or passing others was nearly impossible. We can see why some people say it’s not worth visiting. There are so many hidden gems, though, and when you know what to look out for, the experience gets more interesting.
Top tip: Stay longer for a quieter experience
Most people rush in, take a few photos, and leave within minutes. But because entry works in 30-minute time slots, it’s often busiest at the start.
We noticed that after about 15–20 minutes, it got much quieter as people left. If you can, stay a bit longer. It makes the experience far more enjoyable (and better for photos too).
Livraria Lello ticket
When visiting the most beautiful bookstore, it’s essential to plan ahead! Buy your ticket online to ensure your visit when travelling to Porto. Tickets start at €12.00 per person, and Ticket-Voucher Silver offers a discount when buying a book.
You can also purchase a combo ticket, which includes a guided tour of the Livraria Lello Foundation. This ticket costs €25.00 per person.
A platinum ticket costs €50.00 per person and gives access to the Gemma Room.
Children up to 3 years old can enter the bookstore for free, but you still need to make a reservation for infants. You cannot buy a ticket at the door and must complete an online reservation beforehand.
Opening Hours Livraria Lello
Livraria Lello is open daily from 9 AM until 7 PM. The bookstore in Porto is closed on national holidays like January 1st, Easter Sunday, May 1st, June 24th, and December 25th.
How to get to Livraria Lello?
Livraria Lello is located on Rua das Carmelitas 144, right in the heart of Porto’s historical centre! Therefore, it’s easy to get to the Lello bookstore by foot.
If you come by metro, you can reach the bookshop by taking Metro line D to São Bento Station. This is also where the train arrives.
From there, it takes around 8 minutes to walk. The Yellow Bus and City Sightseeing operators stop near the entrance. You can also come by car, and several car parking options are nearby.
What else to do in Porto
Besides Livraria Lello, there is a lot to see and do in Porto! The shop is close to the Clérigos Tower on Rua dos Clérigos. The view from the tower is stunning, but there are many other famous viewpoints in Porto to discover.
Tourists also love the Ribeira area, the oldest part of the city. You can also see the Porto Cathedral nearby.
Or walk across the famous bridge Ponte D. Luís to explore the port wine houses in Vila Nova de Gaia!
Do you have time for a day trip outside Porto? Then it’s worth visiting the world-famous Douro Valley to discover where the port wine comes from!
Hotels in Porto
Porto is an incredible city where you can easily wander around for a few days. Besides, you can easily travel to Braga, Guimarães, the Douro Valley, and Aveiro. There are accommodations for every group size and budget.
Bask in luxury at the GA Palace Hotel & Spa or the Vincci Ponte de Ferro with a river view! When travelling with up to four people, Domum 3 (pictured) is excellent.
Or book a stay in affordable spots like Acta The Avenue and The Poets Inn. For all other hotels, click the map below to discover the best deals!
FAQ
Did Livraria Lello really inspire J. K. Rowling?
Rowling claims she has never been to Lello Livraria, so therefore, the shop was not the inspiration for her Harry Potter books.
How do I get the tickets to Lello bookstore?
When visiting Livraria Lello, you’ll need to book tickets online. Children under three can enter for free, and adults from €12.00 to €50.00 per person, depending on the ticket.
Why is Lello Bookstore famous?
Livraria Lello Porto has a rich history dating back to the 19th century. The store is famous for its staircase, and many thought it was the inspiration for Jo Rowling to write the Potter books. She claims she was never there and debunked this story.
Does Livraria Lello have English books?
Yes, they do! In fact, you can buy books in Portuguese, English, Spanish, French, Italian, Japanese, and Ukrainian. Most books are, however, in English and Portuguese, and you will have more choice of books in these languages. Besides, other books might be collector items only or books you can buy with your ticket.
Is Livraria Lello worth visiting?
Yes! The bookstore Porto does get crowded, but you can order tickets online to secure your spot. Come early or later in the day when there might be fewer visitors. The architecture is stunning, and Lello Livraria has a rich history.
Planning your visit to Livraria Lello
Livraria Lello is one of Porto’s most famous sights for a reason, but it’s important to know what to expect before you go.
Because of the crowds, the experience can feel rushed if you arrive unprepared. But with the right timing and a bit of patience, it’s still possible to enjoy the bookstore and appreciate its unique architecture.
We found that staying a little longer made a big difference, as the space became noticeably quieter after the first wave of visitors had left.
If you’re interested in beautiful interiors and don’t mind a busy atmosphere, it’s definitely worth adding to your Porto itinerary, just plan your visit carefully to get the most out of it.
Other Porto must-see attractions:
- 25 best sights in Porto for your itinerary
- Discover the beautiful Palácio da Bolsa
- Best Porto boat tours, including the 6 Bridges Cruise
- Miradouros Porto: 8x fantastic viewpoints with the best panoramic views
- Livraria Lello bookstore, the most beautiful bookstore in the world!
- Clérigos Tower tickets, opening times and things to see
- The must-see Porto Cathedral and the beautiful Bishop’s Palace
- 20 ideas for what to do in Porto when it rains
- Discover the beautiful golden São Francisco Church
- Book an amazing Port Wine tasting in Porto
- Visit the Wine Experience Museum at the WOW District
- Love rosé wine? Visit the Pink Palace at WOW!
- Beautiful contemporary art at the Serralves Museum
Pint to read later!
