Livraria Lello bookstore, the most beautiful bookstore in the world!

Visiting Livraria Lello, Porto

When planning a visit to Porto, you’ll definitely read about Livraria Lello. But what is this place, and is it worth a visit? Livraria is the Portuguese word for bookshop or bookstore, and Lello is the name of this fantastic place, named after the Lello brothers. It’s known as one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world, with floor-to-ceiling bookshelves, vivid colours, and a stained glass skylight in the centre. Let’s look at why this Porto store should be on your itinerary when visiting Porto!

A brief history of Livreria Lello

Livraria Lello opened its doors on January 13th 1906. Still, the bookstore’s extended history dates back to the 19th century! Ernesto Chardron, a French bookseller, moved to Porto in 1858. Chardron was a lucky man as he won the lottery in 1869! In fulfilling his dreams, he opened a new bookstore: Bookstore and Publisher Chardron.

Another book lover, José Pinto de Sousa Lello, opened his first bookshop in 1881. He and his brother, António Lello, became prominent members of Porto’s intellectual bourgeoisie. Four years later, in 1885, Chardron died at the age of 45. In 1894, José Pinto de Sousa Lello acquired the Chardron bookstore, including all its contents.

When walking into the store, you’ll notice the Lello Brothers had an immense love for the arts and culture, and engineer Francisco Xavier Esteves designed the current Lello bookstore. Art Deco designs are everywhere inside, and the neo-Gothic with Art Nouveau façade is simply stunning! Livraria Chardron de Lello & Irmão became Livraria Lello & Irmão, and you can still see both names on the façade.

Lello Livraria today

The bookshop wasn’t always this famous, but nowadays, over 1 million visitors a year come to see Livraria Lello! Of those, hundreds of thousands buy a book, a great souvenir of your time in Porto! The building has been extensively renovated, and the current façade is from 2016.

Currently, the administration is in the hands of the Pedro Pinto Family. Since 2015, there has been an entry fee to visit Livraria Lello. The entrance ticket will, however, provide you with a discount when you purchase a book.

Livraria Lello and Harry Potter

Once you walk inside the building, you can see the tremendous staircase in the centre of the room. Rumour has it that this staircase inspired the staircases at Hogwarts School for JK Rowling, the famous writer of the Harry Potter books. Since Lello Livraria is often called the Harry Potter Bookstore, you can find even an impressive collection of Harry Potter books on the shelves.

JK Rowling lived in Porto between 1991 and 1993. She worked in Porto as an English teacher, but there was one problem. Rowling claimed she did not know about the bookstore’s existence, and the inspiration did not come from the now-famous store. It’s a bit like Shakespeare, who never stepped foot in Verona! So whether the bookstore in Porto was the inspiration for Harry Potter and Hogwarts remains to be seen. JK Rowling did write in the beautiful Majestic Cafe from time to time on Rua Santa Catarina.

What to see in the most beautiful bookstore in the world?

To make a claim you’re the most beautiful bookshop in the world means that a visit will be memorable! Be prepared, as you’ll be seeing many stunning gems inside! It starts on the outside already, as the neo-Gothic is an eye-catcher! So, while you wait in the queue, soak up the beauty of the building! Discover the lettering, the two painted figures, and the colourful painting.

The staircase

The iconic staircase is the most famous part of the bookstore and a truly striking element inside. It looks like carved wood, but it was actually built in reinforced concrete, one of the first of its kind! In 2017 and 2018, extensive restorations uncovered the signature of Francisco Xavier Esteves, who was responsible for the project.

In 1993, it got the red colour it is famous for today, but the original colour was brown. Due to a mistake, it was painted red, but sculptor Master José Rodrigues loved it! And it remained this way. And you can see how this stunner could be the inspiration for Hogwarts, so enjoy this moment in the magical store.

The stained glass ceiling

The stained glass roof is 8 meters long and 3.5 meters wide and was created by Dutch master Samuel Van Krieken. There are 55 panels cast in iron, and under the glass, you’ll read Decus in Labore. This means Dignity in Work, a rule adopted in 1906 when the shop opened. By the way, can you find the smiley in the glass? This was added during the 2018 restorations! The ceiling is decorated with painted plaster and a true highlight.

Hidden gems that easily go unnoticed!

Did you see the track on the ground floor? This trackway was used to transport books to the basement by trolley! This is a replica, but the original one was used in the days Livraria Lello was used as a warehouse. There are also several unique books, such as the International Bookstore of Ernesto Chardron and Livraria Lemos & Cª collections! Two lottery tickets were found behind the counters and shelves during the restoration. Booksellers were trying to be as lucky as Chardron once was!

Other points of interest in the bookstore

There is a lot more to see, but here are some more highlights to discover: 

• Find the art installation O Rosto do Porto, which means the face of Porto with 400 clay busts
• Visit the Sala José Saramago, a room filled with works from the Portuguese writer
• Gemma is the space where the most exclusive books are preserved
• Check out the art installation Livraria Lello X Time along the walls
• And more, go check it out yourself!

My personal experience at the Lello bookstore!

First, I had been to Porto numerous times before visiting the famous bookshop. Whenever I saw the queue outside, I turned around. The crowded landmark has turned into (a bit of ) a tourist trap, but I had to discover this for myself. I finally went to see Livraria Lello in December, figuring the crowds would be less. I got my online tickets a week beforehand. I went as early as possible, and when I arrived, there was already a long line of people!

After checking my ticket, I joined the line for a picture at the famous staircase. Then I headed upstairs to wander around and take some images and decided to make a book purchase at Lello’s bookstore. It was very cramped inside, especially around the staircase, and taking pictures or passing others was nearly impossible. I can see why some people say it’s not worth visiting. There are so many hidden gems, though, and when you know what to look out for, the experience gets more interesting. There is a 30 timeslot, and it got a bit quieter toward the end of the session.

Livraria Lello ticket

When visiting the most beautiful bookstore, it´s essential to plan ahead! Buy your ticket online to ensure your visit when travelling to Porto. A ticket costs € 8,00 per person, and Ticket-Voucher Silver offers € 8,00 discount when buying a book. You can also purchase Ticket-Voucher Gold, allowing priority entry with book reserve. The Golden ticket costs € 15,90 per person.

When booking online, you book a date and time for your visit. You can also create an account on the website, allowing you to change the scheduled date and time if other slots are available. You can bring your ticket digitally or print it. Children up to 3 years old can enter the bookstore for free, but you still need to make a reservation for infants. You cannot buy a ticket at the door and must complete an online reservation beforehand.

Opening Hours Livraria Lello

Livraria Lello is open daily from 9 AM until 7 PM. The bookstore in Porto is closed on national holidays like January 1st, Easter Sunday, May 1st, June 24th, and December 25th.

How to get to Livraria Lello?

Livraria Lello is located on Rua das Carmelitas 144, right in the heart of Porto’s historical centre! Therefore, it’s easy to get to the Lello bookstore by foot. If you come by metro, you can reach the bookshop by taking Metro line D to São Bento Station. This is also where the train arrives. From there, it takes around 8 minutes to walk. The Yellow Bus and City Sightseeing operators stop near the entrance. You can also come by car, and several car parking options are nearby.

Hotels in Porto

Porto is an incredible city where you can easily wander around for a few days. Besides, you can easily travel to Braga, Guimarães, the Douro Valley, and Aveiro. There are accommodations for every group size and budget. Bask in luxury at the GA Palace Hotel & Spa or the Vincci Ponte de Ferro with a river view! When travelling with up to four people, Domum 3 is excellent. Or book a stay in affordable spots like Acta The Avenue and The Poets Inn. For all other hotels, click the map below to discover the best deals!

Conclusion

As one of the most beautiful bookstores, it is no surprise that many tourists visit the Livraria Lello bookstore. We can thank the brothers Lello for this stunning landmark in Porto, which should be on your itinerary when you have time. Beautiful bookstores get busy, and Lello bookstore in Porto is the same. Therefore, it can feel like a tourist trap, and a visit might not be for everyone. Many people believe JK Rowling was inspired by the staircase in her Harry Potter books, but she debunked this theory. Overall, I enjoyed my visit to Livraria Lello and found some quiet corners to really enjoy the architecture of the building. Besides the stunning staircase, there are many hidden gems to discover, and a visit to the bookstore Porto is an inspiration, regardless!

Pint to read later!